Postitas tomkulibin » 25 Juul 2006, 00:54
Klemm 2M aju pistikus viitab det. anduri ehk knock sensori olemasolule.
Aju talletab mällu vaid anuri defekti aga ei talleta rakendumist.
KOOD 5: DETONATSIOONI ANDUR (Knock sensor)
anduri eesmärk:
See andur (olemuselt mikrofon) тeatab ECU-le, et põlemiskamber on detonatsooni tsoonis või toimub detonatsioon. Andur saab toite "ajust"(pinge-2,5V).
Kui toimub löök/detonatsioon, annab see mikrofon signaali- toimub 2,5V pinge muutus mille amplituud on kümnendik või sajandik volti. Aju loeb neid võnkeid ja nende suuruse järgi määrab detonatsiooni suuruse, korrigeerib süüdet hilisemaks, püüdes peatada detonatsiooni, mis võib olla purustav, kui teda ei peatata.
Probleemi olemus:
See kood näitab, et det. anduri pinge, mis saabub "aju" A/D kanalisse on üle 3,75v või alla 1,25v. Muid olekuid ei kontrollita.
AJU tegevus hälbe tekkimisel:
Kui kood 5 on aktiivne/detoneerib, siis AJU ei suuda määrata vibratsiooni olemasolu. Mootori pikaealisuse säilitamiseks kasutab AJU ajutiste parameetrite tabelist lisaseadeid süütehetke määramiseks, mis toob kaasa tunduvalt vähendatud sissepritsele suurel koormusel(madalad pöörded/suur õhuvoolu hulk).
Tagajärg: Mõõdukas võimsuse piiramine ja rahuldav mootori töö.
Salvestus: See kood salvestatakse AJu energiasõltuvasse mällu.
1993 2.5L V-6 Engine w/Manual Transaxle "aju"klemmid:
Pin Wire Color Function
1A Blue/Red Keep Alive Power
1B Red/Black Vehicle Power
1C Black/Red Vehicle Start
1D White/Red Swith Monitor Lamp
1E Blue Malfunction Indicator Lamp (and Self Test Output, 1995-97 only)
1F Light Green/Red Self Test Output (1993-94 Only)
1G Blue/Orange Ignition Control Module
1H White Headlamp Switch
1I Red/White Self Test Input
1J Purple Rear Window Defroster Switch
1L Green/Black A/C Relay
1M Green/Red Vehicle Speed Sensor
1N Blue/Yellow Power Steering Pressure Switch
1O Pink/Black Clutch Cycling Pressure Switch
1P Orange/Black Blower Motor Control Switch
1Q White/Green Brake On/Off Switch
1R Light Green/Black Park Neutral Position Switch/Clutch Pedal Position Switch
1T Brown Idle Switch
1U Black Ground (Manual transaxle only)
2B Red Measuring Core Volume Air Flow Sensor
2C Black/Yellow Right Heated Oxygen Sensor
2D Blue/White Left Heated Oxygen Sensor
2E Red/Green Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
2F Yellow Throttle Position Sensor
2G Red/White Cooling Fan Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (1993 Only)
2H Pink/Yellow High Pressure Switch
2I Purple Reference Voltage
2J Red/Black EGR Valve Position Sensor
2K Black/Red Intake Air Temperature Sensor
2L Green Daytime Running Lamp (Canada Only)
2M White Knock Sensor
2O Blue/Black Canister Purge Solenoid
2P Blue/Green High Cooling Fan Relay
3A Black Ground
3B Black Ground
3C Black/Red Ground
3D Black/Blue Ground
3E Light Green/Orange Crankshaft Position Sensor #1
3F Blue Crankshaft Position Signal Return
3G Blue/Pink Cylinder Identification Sensor
3H Green Crankshaft Position Sensor #2
3I White/Green Variable Resonance Induction System Solenoid #1
3J Blue/Red Variable Resonance Induction System Solenoid #2
3L Red/White Low Cooling Fan Relay
3M Green/Black Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid
3N Blue/Orange Condenser Fan Relay
3O White/Blue EGR Vent Solenoid
3P Green/White EGR Control Solenoid
3Q Light Green/Black Idle Air Control Solenoid
3T Light Green Fuel Pump Relay
3U Red/Light Green Injector #1
3V Blue/White Injector #2
3W Brown Injector #3
3X Red/Yellow Injector #4
3Y White Injector #5
3Z White/Black Injector #6
Miskid killukesed veel lisaks(jutt käib probe 1GT-st -peaks kattuma osaliseltki sinu motoga:
Mida kontrollida diagnostikal:
• Kontrollida kõiki ühendusi/puhtus ja el. ühenduse kontakti. Veenduda, et ükski juhe pole kinni litsutud või muljuda saanud. Andur asub sisselaske kollektori all, silindrite vahel, starteri ligidal.Juhtmestik on kergesti vigastatav.
• Kontrollida el. kontakti anduri pistiku ja AJU vahel.
• Proovige asendada kindlalt korras anduriga. Kui olukord ei muutu, on oletuslikult viga AJUs.
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Detonatsooni andur töötab koos klapiga, mis piirab rõhu tõstmist üle 6PSI(turbo rõhu regulaator).
Kasutamise käigus võib Det.andur hoopis välja lülitada rõhu regulaatori, siis turbo ei suuda tõsta survet üle 6PSI. Nullimine- süüde väja, uueasi käivitus.
Mittetöötav Lambda andur rikastab segu => lükkab detonatsiooni kõrgemale survele.
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1.Kontrollida voolikud ja nende ühendused.
2.Rõhureguleerimise klapi el.magnet.Sisselülitatud süütega kuulata klapi plõksu juhtme lahti/kokku ühendamisel.
3.Kontrollida turbot, eemaldada baypas klapilt voolik ja vajutada korraks gasile.Kui surve tõuseb "lakke"- on turbo korras ja jupsib tema juhtimine(Voolikut eemaldades turbo ei rakendunud- el.ühenduste probleem/juhtumus).
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...Turbo "lõikas ära"- 1. vastgate vigane 2.elektr. ühendused
Mälusse talletub impulss mõlemalt lambdalt, kui on liiga rikas või liiga vaene segu(salvestub mällu erinevate koodidena) ja/või kontrolllambi süütamisega.
Küünlad liiga heledad- segu vaene/kütust vähe, õhku palju.
Lambda kontrollib jääkhapnikku peale põlemist, see on infiks ajule, mis omakorda korrigeerib pihustite impulsi pikkust.
Toon siia ära ka veakoodid sinu motole:
Engine Self Test: 1993-95 2.5L V-6 Engine [Print Page]
Overview 1993 to 1995 Probes were equipped with an On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system to detect malfunctions in sensors and notified the driver through the Check Engine light on the instrument panel.
The 'Check Engine' light or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) light on the instrument cluster illuminates when the ignition is turned to the 'On' position. It will go off a second or two after the engine is started. If the light stays illuminated after the engine is started or illuminates while driving, there may be a problem with the engine. Checking for error codes is an easy way to find out what's wrong and what, if anything, caused the 'Check Engine' light to illuminate.
Procedure There are three ways to check for error codes:
Engine Code Scanner
If you have a Super STAR II or equivalent engine code scanner, you can perform a quick test on your engine to see if there's anything wrong. Simply connect it according to the manufacturer's instructions and write down the codes that appear. Codes are listed below.
Analog Voltmeter
If you don't have an engine code scanner, you can perform the same test with a standard analog voltmeter. Set the meter to read between 0 and 20 volts. Find the Data Link Connector under the hood, between the battery and the left fender. Connect the positive wire of the voltmeter to the Self-Test Output (STO) pin on the Data Link Connector (see image below). Connect the negative wire to a ground.
Key On Engine Off Self Test: Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper between the Self-Test input (STI) pin and the Ground (GND) pin on the Data Link Connector (see image below).
Key On Engine Running Self Test: Start the engine and allow it to idle. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper between the Self-Test input (STI) pin and the Ground (GND) pin on the Data Link Connector (see image below).
The voltmeter will display a pulse for 3 seconds when the test is first started. Engine codes will appear on the display as a pulse. See below for how to interpret the pulses.
MIL Light
If you don't have an engine code scanner, the easiest way to check for error codes is by using the Malfunction Indicator light on the instrument cluster.
Key On Engine Off Self Test: Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper between the Self-Test input (STI) pin and the Ground (GND) pin on the Data Link Connector (see image below).
Key On Engine Running Self Test: Start the engine and allow it to idle. When you're ready to start the test, connect a jumper between the Self-Test input (STI) pin and the Ground (GND) pin on the Data Link Connector (see image below).
The Malfunction Indicator light will go out after a second then will flash the engine error codes, if any. See below for how to interpret the flashes.
Data Link Connector OBD-I
Interpreting the Codes The pulses on the voltmeter and the flashes on the Malfunction Indicator light translate into multi-digit codes. To simplify things, we'll call all flashes and pulses, pulses. There are two types of pulses. A long pulse is a pulse that lasts 1-1/2 seconds. A short pulse is a pulse that lasts a 1/2 second. These are pretty distinguishable. The long pulse represents the first digit, and the short pulse represents the second digit. So, if there are three long pulses followed by four short pulses, that would be the number 34. If there isn't any long pulse, the number is less than ten. Eight short pulses with no long pulse would be an 8 code. If there is a long pulse, but no short pulse, the code is 10. If there is more than one code, each code will be separated by a 4-second pause. When all the codes are displayed, the codes will repeat.
If there are no codes, then there are no problems found.
Codes 8 and 34
Clearing the Codes Clear the PCM memory by disconnecting the negative battery cable then pressing on the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
Engine Self Test: Codes
Code Sensor or System
10 Intake Air Temperature sensor or circuit
12 Throttle Position Sensor or circuit
14 Barometric Pressure Sensor
15 Heated Oxygen sensor or circuit
16 EGR Valve Position sensor or circuit
17 Heated Oxygen sensor or circuit
2 Crankshaft Position #2 sensor or circuit
23 Heated Oxygen sensor or circuit
24 Heated Oxygen sensor or circuit
25 Fuel Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid or circuit
26 Canister Purge Solenoid valve or circuit
28 EGR Vacuum Regulator/EGR Control solenoid or circuit
29 EGR Vent Solenoid or circuit
3 Cylinder Identification sensor or circuit
34 Idle Air Control valve or circuit
4 Crankshaft Position #1 sensor or circuit
41 VRIS #1 Solenoid or circuit
46 VRIS #2 Solenoid or circuit
5 Knock sensor or circuit
67 Low Condensor Fan relay or circuit
69 Cooling Fan Engine Coolant Temperature sensor or circuit
8 Measuring Core-Volume Airflow sensor or circuit
9 Engine Coolant Temperature sensor or circuit
Mida tehti eelnevalt, milles seisnes timmimine?